Sunday, February 26, 2006

introduction

Welcome to "Bienvenidas a la Vida Mexicana!", which translates to "Welcome to the Mexican Life!". This is my Mexico trip photolog consisting of a journal and extensive photolog (I kid you not. This page is so picture-intensive you will need to give it at least 10 min to load fully), from when I travelled to Mexico City, Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta with Alvin and Ben during the UBC Spring Break from 8 Feb 2006 to 19 Feb 2006.

I hope you enjoy the photos as much as I enjoyed taking them, having them taken, and uploading them.

Oh, and the blog address "cuantos cuestas?" translates to "how much?" in English. It's the phrase tt I have been made to say the most by Ben and Alvin when it comes to bargaining with errant shopekeepers. Alvin learnt to say this by Puerto Vallarta.

;)

Friday, February 24, 2006

day 1: from vancouver to seattle to mexico city

8 Feb 2006 (Wednesday)

Day 1 of the Mexico adventure. The trip starts off with us 3 musketeers (Ben, Alvin and I) having a so-called "farewell" breakfast at Mac's with Simin, Jo-ann and Zineng.

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Group photo!

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And us 3 musketeers in question.

After tt it's on to Holiday Inn in downtown to board the QuickShuttle (code name for: VERY FUCKING SLOW shuttle) to Seattle, where we would be flying off to Mexico City from.

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View of the bus.

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And view from the bus.

The bus took over 4 hours to get us from Vancouver to Seattle. It was damn bloody slow, and things were not helped by the fucking guai lan customs officer at the US land border, who irritated the hell out of me. The bus trip alone was enough to tire us out.

Fortunately we managed to get to the Seattle Tacoma International Airport in one piece, albeit tired out, and in time for our flight. We all didn't like the airport - for Ben, it was VERY smoker-unfriendly (he was absolutely miserable smoking outside in the cold), and for the rest of us it was a mess and we wouldn't call it world-class at all. But well. At least I got nice views from the terminal gallery of planes taking off while waiting.

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Night sky from the Seattle airport, as we were waiting to board our plane to Los Angeles, where we would be taking the connecting flight to Mexico City from.

Our 6.45pm flight was delayed for almost an hour, but we still managed to get to LA in time to catch our 11.38pm flight on time anyway (smoking rooms available in LAX.) We reached Mexico City around 2.15 am Vancouver time, which was 4.15am Mexico time, and from the Mexico City Airport, we took our first cab to our hotel in Centro Historico (the historical area of Mexico City) - Hotel Gillow. Which Ben booked coz it was a name he could easily pronounce.

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That's Ben with the cab driver.

And I liked the hotel, because it was located on the road: Isabel la Catholica. :) Wahaha.

For 3 of us, we got a junior suite. With 2 rooms - 1 with 2 single beds, and 1 with this massive king-size bed. Ben got the room with the king-size bed. Bah.

And this is where I end off with the Day 1 entry, even though it's already over 5 hours into Day 2. But seriously, there's no difference.

day 2: mexico city - of zocalo, the art museum, and la zona rosa

9 Feb 2006 (Thursday)

Because we didn't rest at all at the hotel. We just went in to put down our stuff, took our baths, and then went right out again just as the sun was rising over the city.

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The Mexico City street outside our hotel in the early morning.

Mexico City is AMAZING. This place doesn't sleep. It's just so vibrant and bustling with energy and culture from its buildings and cobblestoned roads, to its people, to even the cute green beetle taxi cabs on the road.

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Like this one.

Anyway our first stop was Zocalo, which was the main square in Centro Historico.

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This is the Square and the large Cathedral in the square.

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And me and the huge Mexican flag in the centre of the square. It looks so regal when it flutters in the wind.

There was a demonstration outside Parliament building (see below) on the day we were there, so the riot police were actually standing on guard in case they were needed to quell the protesters.

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Above: Riot police close up. And below: the whole damn squad as taken from across the street (I didn't want my camera to be confiscated. Just in case).

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Because we were fucking hungry along the way, we embarked on this mission to find food. Food. Any kind of food. It was still really early so a lot of places weren't open... But we struck gold. This bakery/cafe tt was our first brush with DAMN cheap coffee and food.

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This cappucino costs only 13 pesos. Which is equivalent to US $1.30.

And it is DAMN good.

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Me with said cappucino (the first of many many more obsessive coffee photos to come later in this blog).

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Ben with cappucino (no. The coffee photo phrase is not limited to me alone).

Ooh... And you haven't even see the sweets yet!

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Rich thick fresh cream-filled chocolate bowl with fruits to dip. YUMMY.

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Desserts (before breakfast???) and cappucino.

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And Alvin and I and our breakfast.

After breakfast, it was onward to the National Museum of Art to look around. We'd got there early - before the museum opened, so we tried to waste some time by going to the post office to look around (it looks really grand!).

And take photos of course.

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Ben and I at the post office. This apparently only serves the purpose of telling EVERYONE tt he is one head taller than me. BAH.

But we still ended up waiting outside the museum later anyway.

Poor Alvin was SO tired tt he just couldn't take all the waiting (the museum didn't open on time).

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Zzz.

Interestingly, there was a demonstration against privatisation going on outside the museum. Tons of people from different provinces had set up tents and staged some kind of sit out to protest Mexico's move towards privatisation.

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Which explains all the tents above. Heh. (Okay, this was taken at a later time, but I am just trying to highlight a point here.)

Anyway the museum was really lovely. Grand, with so many pictures and portraits and art pieces and exhibits.

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Me at the main entrance.

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A book with an illustration by de la Goya (there was a Goya exhibition going on at the museum during this period).

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The stairs leading up to the 2nd floor.

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A stained glass phoenix.

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And how one wall of the gallery might look.

This museum also made Ben VERY happy, because unlike other museums anywhere else in the world, it actually had an "Area de Fumar" - an area where smoking was allowed.

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Ben's "Area de Fumar".

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And me engaging in vice as well.

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After tt, it was back to Zocalo to the cathedral.

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Where we walked inside to have a look at it. And YES.

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It is very very grand. Of course.

But we were dead tired, I think from the travelling and the lack of sleep. I was literally falling asleep in the pews of the cathedral.

So we decided to go somewhere else. We took the Metro - tt's the subway and the Mexican equivalent of the MRT, except tt it is a lot cheaper. A one-way ticket ANYWHERE costs only 3 pesos. Oh and the Metro is a massive underground labyrinth. The different tracks cross all over the place, so taking the Metro involves a fair amount of changing trains and cross tracks.

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Above is the Metro station. And below is people waiting for the train.

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Interestingly, we found out tt Mexicans have a culture of selling things. They will sell you anything anywhere anytime. In the metro, we'd have people get on the train just to hawk everything from pirated CDs to nail clippers to cure-it-all medication to chewing gum. You name it, they'd probably sell it. And they'd announce what they were selling really loudly in Espanol and in the case of CDs, play what they were selling on these loud speakers built into bags tt they would carry with them.

We took the Metro to Avenida Insurgentes, where we were supposed to look for the Mercado (Market) Insurgentes. But it was SO fucking hot tt we ended up at this alfresco dining place for lunch instead.

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Alvin and I with beer and watermelon juice respectively.

It was the life. Sitting there for at least 2 hours eating, drinking, and in Ben's case, smoking. And chatting about life and all things related.

We only decided to find the market past 4pm, but I'd gotten confused between Mercado Insurgentes and Plaza Insurgentes, and I led them to the wrong place instead. And it was a 10 block walk from the Metro station, too!

Ultimately, we ended up at La Zona Rosa engaging in our first foray into vice. La Zona Rosa means "The Pink Zone". It's supposed to be a touristy area with its restaurants, bars and sex shops, but it's ultimately geared towards the rainbow-coloured flag inclined.

And here I also have to say: Whatever happens in Mexico, remains in Mexico.

It was however, a highly entertaining and amusing night. And we ended early too. We were in bed by 10.30pm tt night. Zzz.

Thursday, February 23, 2006

day 3: the aztec civilization, to guadalupe, mercado insurgentes and an evening at the plaza garibaldi

10 Feb 2006 (Friday)

We woke up early this morning to take a bus out of twon to see the Aztec Civilization pyramids in Teotihuacan 50 km from the city. Had a little trouble with the taxi system (no, we didn't get assaulted by cab drivers tt we hailed off the street. We just had trouble telling the driver tt we wanted to go to "Terminal Central de Autobus del Norte" - pronounced in Espanol, not English), but we did manage to get to the bus station, albeit with a lot of pointing and Ben saying "Si, si, si" (which is "yes" in Spanish).

And so we took the bus out to the pyramids. It cost us only 27 pesos, which is US $2.70. It was an approximately 1 hour journey. As always, Alvin was able to fall asleep on the bus (he can fall asleep on any moving vehicle, provided he is not the one behind the wheel), but I don't think we slept as much or as well as him.

But the bus ride was interesting, mainly because even out of Mexico City, the highway wasn't bare. It was continually lined with rows upon rows upon rows of houses all the way out.

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Like so.

Some of these houses were so far away from the city tt you wondered where on earth this people went or what they did for a living. Usually houses located far from the city are agricultural in nature such tt you have farmland and stuff to work on, but here the houses were right next to each other. What would there be to farm? And how long would it take to travel from home to city every single morning?

On another interesting note, Mexicans sell you anything anywhere. On the bus, some Mexican boarded the vehicle with a guitar, took it out and just started singing 4 songs in Espanol. The songs were of the romantic sort, and coupled with his deep voice it was really nice to listen to. We were entertained, definitely. And after tt he came around to collect token sums for his singing.

But it was all good.

We reached Teotihuacan around 10am. To discover giant aloe veras and cactuses.

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But yeah. The draw of Teotihuacan is not in the plants. It's in the pyramids.

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Pyramid.

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Me with pyramid.

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Me and Alvin with pyramid.

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Us on the Avenue of the Dead.

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And us again... I don't know where this time.

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And Ben and I in the square by the Temple of the Serpent.

Basically the Aztec Civilisation is this city in the middle of nowhere (I assume this used to be some jungle or something), and it consists 3 pyramids - a Temple of the Serpent, and the Pyramid of the Sun (pyramide del Sol) and the Pyramid of the Moon (pyramide la Luna), and the long straight walkway leading through the area is the Avenue of the Dead. The walls tt line the avenue are painted with pretty murals, such as those of pumas.

We climbed up to the top of the Pyramid of the Sun.

Trust me, once is enough.

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Can you tell how tired the boys are? ;)

But hey, at least the view is good. Wahaha.

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You can see the Pyramid of the Moon from here.

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And tt's the requisite "Look ma! I was there!" photo.

If anything, the walk back from the pyramids to the place where we were supposed to take our bus was more of a killer. We walked out of Puerto (Gate) 4, when we were supposed to take our bus from Puerto 1. And between each gate is a distance of 1 km. Except tt we all believe tt the Mexican km is longer than an ordinary km. Especially when you're walking in the blazing sun and we were all hungry coz we hadn't had breakfast.

But finally, we did get back to Puerto 1.

Only to have to wait a long long time for any bus to take us back to Mexico City. So much for the "20 min" interval.

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If it was a mere 20 min, we wouldn't have been so forlorn sitting and waiting by the side of the road. Wahaha.

Hey, at least we got entertainment from watching cars go by. A lot of Mexican cars tt we saw had no liscence plates. I'm talking NO liscence plates. At all. You wonder where they get them from. And even some cabs had no liscence plates. I bet those were the ones with the drivers tt would assault you for your money. Wahaha.

But well. As all things go, we did get a bus back to the city, and from there we bought some bread at the station, then took the metro down to Guadalupe, which is where the Catholic church where the Virgin Mary revealed herself to one of the Mexicans (who later became a saint. Although I cannot remember what his name is. Still) is located.

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This is the main church.

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And tt is me with it.

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This is the church close-up.

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Actually there were 2 churches. The round thing to the left of the original church is the new church built to accomodate more people. And it's being used for mass and novena while the original church is undergoing renovations and such.

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And this is the clock in the square in front of the church.

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The Pope!!! Talk about larger than life.

Interestingly enough, today something big was going on. A cardinal from the Vatican City had come to Guadalupe, and as such there was this whole contingent of bishops, priests, altar boys, security personnel walking purposefully through the square. With a number of journalists literally chasing after them, hoping for tt exclusive picture.

Anyway we walked a bit more, and then we found the original basilica. As in, the original chapel where the Virgin had appeared to the Mexican (I think).

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This is the original chapel from the outside.

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And this is how it looked from the inside.

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The ceiling was painted with angels.

After spending some time in this basilica, we ventured out to where we discovered this massive garden dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It had a large waterfall even!

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Ben and I in said garden.

From Guadalupe, it was off to explore the little mercados around the area to see what they had to offer. Then it was to McDonald's (!!!), which we discovered to be WAY more expensive in relation to all other Mexican eating places, and then it was back to the Metro to Mercado Insurgentes (which we finally found) to go check out what tt market had.

Problem is all these markets were more like tourist traps.

We ended up at this really small outdoor cafe in La Zona Rosa drinking cappucino and mocha, and smoking Cuban cigars.

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Ben and I cradling our cappucinos at the small cafe.

Well, we wanted to try a Cuban cigar, but Alvin decided tt he didn't like cigars after 1 puff. In the end, Ben and I were trying our best to finish the damn thing, but we never really got past the halfway mark. Ben had to finish the rest back in Vancouver.

But tt was a nice relaxing 2 hours. Or more.

By the time we were done, night was falling already.

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The streets of Mexico City by night.

So from Zona Rosa, it was on to dinner at this place next to the Art Museum tt we had visited the day before. It was supposed to serve upmarket but authentic Mexican fare.

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This is the 2nd floor of the restaurant where we were sitting.

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And tt's the 3 of us at said restaurant.

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Alvin and the waiter! :)

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For our appetizers, we ordered 5 kinds of fried herbs (really, we were eating fried leaves), a diced turkey dish to be eaten with tortillas...

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For our main course, we ordered some kind of beef dish where pork had been wrapped into the meat, a chicken dish with gravy, and a tomato-based pasta soup. And yes, I don't know any of the names of these dishes in Espanol at all.

And lastly for our dessert...

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Alvin loves his caramel pudding.

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And this is ice-cream in a chocolate cone for the rest of us. :)

Of course, nothing is complete without the requisite cappucino shots.

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After dinner, it was on to Plaza Garibaldi, where we heard the mariachis would be performing for us.

Well. We didn't pay any mariachis to perform for us. But we did however, buy 3 hats.

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The 3 amigos. Very good.

And then we went to this 2nd floor club to listen to live music and watch people salsa dance.

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Above and below: The insides of the club.

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And the 3 of us at the club with our drinks - beer and margarita. To quote Pierce Brosnan in The Matador: "A margarita never tastes quite as good until you are in Mexico City". Although this could also be because a margarita is never quite as strong until you are in Mexico City, where tequila is so cheap and readily-available it might as well be free.

Unfortunately, a good night was spoilt by us getting ripped off by the club's service charge - 80 pesos for 275 pesos worth of drinks, which is an almost 40% service charge. Ben was pretty pissed. And we were all under the influence.

But it ended okay. Alvin bought a couple more beers from Oxxo (the Mexican equivalent of 7-11) and 7-11 (okay. They have both here), went back to our hotel, and we played cards till Ben very literally concussed on the floor.

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And thus ended Day 3.